INTERIOR WALLS
Tools Required:
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Power Drill
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Chop Saw
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Measuring Tape
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Circular Saw
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Nail Gun (optional)
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Framing Square
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Assorted Drill & Drive Bits
Materials:
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2x2 lumber
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2x3 lumber
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Wall Siding Material
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2.5" Metal Tapping Screws
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3" Wood Screws
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Framing Nails
You should already know if you plan on covering windows with interior walls. You have two options: 1) Rivet an aluminum sheet over the exterior windows (silicone window framing as well as edges of new metal covering. 2) Leave window exposed on exterior (can paint over) and silicone the window framing inside and and out. YOU DON'T WANT LEAKING!
*We've found leaving the exterior window exposed works great, just depends on the look you want to achieve.
All school buses are insulated with 1-2" fibreglass beneath the metal siding and metal roof. Again, you have two options:
1)Removing all roofing metal and siding metal. If you go this route, it will be the MOST work involved in your build. These buses are built like tanks and all siding is riveted to the framing every 1". To remove rivets, use a zip cutter grinding wheel and cut an "X" in every rivet head in order to remove them. You can also use an air chisel, but we've found the cutting wheel to work faster.
2) Leave the factory insulation and metal siding and inclose this behind your permenant walls. This will save you a ton of time and money. You can still insulate adequately and and you will only lose about 1-2 inches of interior width. (Remember, there is always a chance for moisture to have caused mold to form within this insulation.)
BUSES:
If you aren't covering any windows, then this step is the easiest! First you will measure your length (front to back) and height (floor to bottom of window). Now, take the longest piece of 2x2 you have (even if it doesn't span your full length. This will be your bottom piece of the wall. Match this piece and it will be your wall top. Now, cut pieces to act as your studs. Studs are spaced every 16". These cuts will determine your height.
For Example: if you want a 36" wall, you would cut your studs to 33". This is because your top and bottom wall pieces are each 1.5" thick.
REMEMBER: Dimensional lumber is about a half inche less than labelled.
Take your wall inside the bus and put in position. Measure about 1" from the bus wall at either end of your bus (front and back). Take a chalk line and snap it on these marks. This is where your baseplate will be screwed to the floor! The last step is ensuring your wall is square to your floor.
TIP: Build both side walls first, then secure baseplate, then use cross measurements to ensure your walls are square. Refer to picture above for clarity. A good starting point is to measure the distance between baseplates on each side, and ensure your top-plate is the same distance apart.
Once everything is square, secure your baseplate to the floor with screws, then secure your top plate to the metal bus sides/frame with metal tapping or predrilled screw holes. Depending where your squared walls are, you may need to cut some wood to shim between bus metal and your new wall.
VANS:
Van walls may look daunting, but don't worry.. they are actually simpler than a full bus wall. You will have to get creative where you make your securing attachment to the van metal.
NOTE: INSULATE FIRST FOR VANS! Go to Insulation NOW.
Take cardboard and create a wall template for both sides of your van. Make sure you trace around any obstruction perfectly (wheel wells, gas tank feed, etc) as this will make your plywood cutting way easier!
First, you will decide if you want a full floor to roof wall, or a half wall up to your windows (if you have them). Either way, the steps are the same. TIP: If you do a half wall, measure about 3/4" short so that you can add a top piece to cover some creative attachment points to van frame.
Secure 2x2 strips of lumber to the floor and back of van (also front if have a van frame that sections off the front cabin area). These will be your attachments that support your plywood wall. Now, measure your wall height and cut your plywood to size. (We suggest 1/2" - 3/4" thickness for strength). Use your cardboard template to trace out your plywood cut lines. Now, take your jigsaw and get cutting!
Dry fit your freshly cut plywood to the 2x2 supports. Measure the gap at the top to your van frame. This is where you will create and drill shims to attach the top supports.
Pre-drill your achor points, cut the appropriate size shims, then attach with metal screws. Make sure your shim is wide enough to attach your plywood without splitting your shims.
Finish by attaching your plywood, securing to all anchor points, and then wood filling any screw holes. Done!
Here is an example of the metal paneling removed from the roof. This exposed some mold growing on the insulation.
